One of the first alcoholic drinks Ryan “Mr Lyan” Chetiyawardana tried was a Snowball, a cocktail made from lemonade, advocaat and lime, that he sneaked at a Christmas party as a kid. “It’s minimally boozy,” says the mixologist, “but there’s something about the set of flavours – creamy, citrusy and bubbly – that feels festive.”

Chetiyawardana prepares a drink
Chetiyawardana prepares a drink © Joshua Tarn
Prawn cocktail tarts
Prawn cocktail tarts © Joshua Tarn
From left: studio director Daniel Baer, friend Danni Barry, Hot Feet director Hen Norton, photographer Christina Kernohan and (at front) Chetiyawardana’s sister Natasha
From left: studio director Daniel Baer, friend Danni Barry, Hot Feet director Hen Norton, photographer Christina Kernohan and (at front) Chetiyawardana’s sister Natasha © Joshua Tarn

That memory is the inspiration behind Chetiyawardana’s welcome drink: a Snowball “base” topped up with Laurent-Perrier champagne. It’s the first of many kitsch treats offered throughout the evening at his Thameside bar Lyaness, which also includes punch, parsnip “sausage” rolls and prawn-cocktail tarts. 

The “boozeless” punch
The “boozeless” punch © Joshua Tarn
Chetiyawardana serves his fig, spinach and goat’s cheese tarts
Chetiyawardana serves his fig, spinach and goat’s cheese tarts © Joshua Tarn

An enthusiastic host, as happy at home as he is in one of his professional spaces, Chetiyawardana sets the mood with candles, plush sofas and moveable stools. He likes to keep things intimate: like “a great house party”, albeit one with a free-flowing and abundant bar. Guests – a mix of Chetiyawardana’s friends, colleagues and creative collaborators – include photographer Christina Kernohan, Mr Lyan co-founder Alex Lawrence and Chetiyawardana’s sister Natasha, who arrives six months pregnant in an emerald green dress. The punch is “boozeless”, a citrine-toned liquid – made up of Seedlip Garden 108, white tea, pine sherbet and sparkling kombucha – that takes centre stage in a large silver basin. 

Mr Lyan Studio MD Bob Conwell (left) toasts with guests
Mr Lyan Studio MD Bob Conwell (left) toasts with guests © Joshua Tarn

A selection of spirits and garnishes are on hand for those looking to up the ante: Glasgow Blend whisky and thyme sprigs to compliment the “fuller notes” of the punch; Porter’s Orchard Gin and cucumber to bring out the “green”. “Any preferences? Any aversions?” Chetiyawardana asks the group, a tea towel hanging out of his back pocket. All are happy to go with his suggestions.  

Chetiyawardana regales his guests
Chetiyawardana regales his guests © Joshua Tarn
Serving up a boozeless punch
Serving up a boozeless punch © Joshua Tarn
Chetiyawardana with Alex Lawrence, co-owner of Mr Lyan
Chetiyawardana with Alex Lawrence, co-owner of Mr Lyan © Joshua Tarn

Group serves and customisable drinks are key features of a Chetiyawardana party. Snacks, inspired by Sri Lankan “short eats”, range from homemade pastries and cod croquettes to chips and padrón peppers. His music choices are eclectic, spanning R&B, hip-hop and 2000s French rock. The goal is to be “as real as possible”, he says. Not that Chetiyawardana is a careless host – rather, a quietly fastidious one. “The idea is to map out an evening,” he says. “You want to be able to give a framework – with the idea that things will take their own path as you get into the drinks and conversations.” 

“You want to be able to give a framework – with the idea that things will take their own path,” says Chetiyawardana
“You want to be able to give a framework – with the idea that things will take their own path,” says Chetiyawardana © Joshua Tarn
Chetiyawardana with, left, stylist and fashion editor Karen Langley and his sister Natasha
Chetiyawardana with, left, stylist and fashion editor Karen Langley and his sister Natasha © Joshua Tarn

The final stage of Chetiyawardana’s plan is the arrival of his “Nuked Negroni”, a seasonal take on the cocktail that he infuses in a microwave and then cools before serving. The drink is designed to be drunk slowly; large cubes of ice are in order. “Serving Martinis to a big group is a) lethal and b) loses its finesse quite quickly,” says Chetiyawardana. “This is something that has breathing room.” At this point the host can finally take a seat. A batch of croquettes have been served; more bottles of Nuked Negroni are in place. Guests pour freely throughout the rest of the night.

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